Titanium Fire Piston

[exodus125]

Torture Test Pictures: Salt paste

Ti Piston vs. Steel Nail

Piston was scratched up on a grinder to remove some of the smooth polished finish, to help the rust to its thing. It was slammed on the floor to further scratch it. Pictures were taken about 36 hours after applying the salt bath and salt paste.

Piston remained the same the last time it was checked on Saturday. On Sunday My wife picked it up from my shop floor not knowing what I was doing. I have since stuck the two in a water bottle with some salt water pictures to follow.

"The beauty behind the fire piston concept is its absolute simplicity in design and, ultimately with practice, the simplicity of its functionality. An idea that is literally centuries old, the fire piston is a marvel of compression and combustion that creates fire without flint or matches. Once one gets used to the technique, the fire piston becomes fun to use and is practical as well." -T.B.

These pieces are made of pure titanium. They will not rust or corrode. Aside from it's rust resistance, Titanium is also a poor conductor of heat. This means these will lite a lot easier than pieces made from other types of metals in colder weather since the heat is insulated a lot better. The 3 mm thick walls also help to insulate the air better.

Here are the specs of the piston:

The piston tube has 3mm thick walls and measures 85mm long and 15mm wide.

The piston rod measures 97mm long, 8mm wide, and is solid titanium.

You would have a HARD time trying to break one of these pieces, this is the last fire piston you will ever need.

More information about fire pistons can be found here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fire_piston









Here it is in action:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbsYXHwrzsU

PREPARING THE PISTON FOR USE:

The first thing you want to do is lubricate the o-ring. Use chapstick, grease, lard, etc. This will ensure there is an airtight seal and help create compression.

Insert the piston inside the tube and push down on it lightly several times, this helps lubricate the inside of the tube.

Remove a small piece of char cloth from a char cloth square and shove inside the bowl shaped end. You want to jam a large enough piece so that it does not fall from the cup end.

You are now ready to use the piston.



USING THE PISTON:


The easiest way to get the piston to light is to be in a kneeled position, similar to how you would be getting ready to light a camp fire.

Place the tube over the rod, so that the o-ring is barely resting on the lip of the tube.

It is important that you begin compression with as much air trapped inside the tube as possible. If you start compression 1/2" way down the tube or even 1/4" down the tube, it will be very hard or impossible to get ignition.

Using the palm of your hand, push down on the piston. Use your body weight as leverage to come down on the piston hard if you have to. You must force the piston down AS HARD, AS FAST, AND AS FAR DOWN AS POSSIBLE. If you remember anything from these instructions, remember that. You are trying to create compression in the piston so that the char cloth ignites. Following the bold text will maximize your chances of ignition.

Immediately after compressing the piston, remove the rod from the tube and check for an amber. If no amber is present, repeat the steps, making sure you are following everything correctly. If after the 3rd attempt you fail to get an amber, Try adding more lubrication to the rod and check the o-ring for damage. You can also try using a new piece of char cloth.

STARTING A CAMP FIRE:

If you’re trying to actually start a fire with the piston, get yourself set up with your kindling first. I like to make a tee-pee shape with small skinny dry twigs, and set a wad of tinder (dry grass, cotton, or anything that will catch a flame easily) in the middle of the tee-pee. Once that is set up, I get another wad of dry grass or any other available tinder and put a square of char cloth on top. I lay the wad on the ground and push down on the char cloth in the center flattening the wad a bit.

Now, use the piston to make an amber, transfer the amber to the larger piece of char cloth and then fold the wad in half and begin to blow. It helps if you cup your hands and hold the wad of tinder like a ball in your hands. You will begin to see smoke after a few seconds. You will have to blow air on the wad for a good minute before it ignites. You will begin to see more smoke and start to feel the wad get hotter, once it gets hot enough the whole wad will ignite, at which point you can transfer that wad to the other wad under the Teepee which will get your small twigs on fire.

I also encourage you all to make your own char cloth. It is a useful skill to learn and its easy to make, even at camp. There are several videos on youtube that explain how to make char cloth.




I think the nicest thing about a fire piston, is it brings you back to basics making you more efficient at lighting a fire.

I remember before I got into fire pistons I would go camping and I could easily go through an entire book of matches trying to light a fire. I could douse the wood with gasoline or kerosene, and still take a while to get the fire going.

The use of the piston forces you to set everything right the first time, if you fail to set everything right, it won't light.

So you can think of this as training or practice for that one day you may need to start a fire with one match or with only a couple of matches, or no matches at all. Aside form that these are very cool as well.

I make these in small batches and they are sometimes hard to come by. Here are a few words from arewethereyetdad, one of my happy customers:

The beauty behind the fire piston concept is its absolute simplicity in design and, ultimately with practice, the simplicity of its functionality. An idea that is literally centuries old, the fire piston is a marvel of compression and combustion that creates fire without flint or matches. Once one gets used to the technique, the fire piston becomes fun to use and is practical as well.

I must admit that I owned an aluminum fire piston within the past year, and I could never get the hang of it. Not once did I successfully create an ember with that one, eventually selling it off, swearing never again to try one of them. It took the lure of titanium to bring me back.

When I first saw the titanium prototype on display from exodus0125, I thought I had to try again. Such simple elegance, and it's titanium to boot! I signed up and awaited the pass-around pistons. The first one that arrived was incredible. Heavy Grade 1 Ti - it had a nice weightiness to it.

I began by admiring the artistic flair created by exodus0125, with the handle GID O-rings.

I immediately pulled out a small piece of char cloth, loaded the little piston bowl, coated the O-ring with Chapstick (just as the videos suggested), got into position, and like Charlie Brown running up to kick the football with Lucy holding it, I failed yet again to successfully create a burning ember. OK, I thought, I can do this. I have to do this - it's titanium, fer cryin' out loud, and I have a lovefest with all things titanium! So I tried again and failed. Again, and another failure. I re-watched the video and couldn't see anything I was doing wrong. Tried again, failed. Then I sat back and thought about it. Maybe I was starting the compression with the piston too far into the handle. Maybe if I started the compression before the O-ring entered the handle, thereby giving more length to compress, it would work. Tried it this way, and BOOYA, it worked!! Yes! I got an ember!! For the first time...ever. I yelled to my 13 year old son to come here and see this! Did it again...worked! Did it again...worked! Did it once again.....worked! Whoo Hoo!! I got it! I'm a master of the fire piston!
I remembered the line from Blazing Saddles about badges and, altering the line, shouted: "Matches? We don't need no stinkin' matches!"

All in all, it was a fun experience. I had a blast and I give exodus0125 a solid 10 out of 10!

Here is another review:


"Just wanted to say, I just got your fire piston, and WOW! It took only 3 tries before it lit, and that is with no experience with Fire Piston's whatsoever. I just had to follow your directions on your video. On customer service alone, I would buy from you again. I had no worries about any problems because you responded to any questions so quickly. I was slightly worried about the price because some of the cheaper, generic fire piston's out there are less, but the titanium totally attracted me to this. It is surprisingly light for a solid metal piece (again Titanium). Not only that slightly larger diameter seems to be a good benefit because once lit, it keeps lit and it easy to remove and place in a bird's nest. Although I will still use a Bic lighter or a firesteel as my main fire starter, it is really nice to know I have this as a backup (something that won't rust or fade). Thanks again."

-D.S.




The price for each fire piston will be $125. The piston will include 2 extra o-rings and a bag of char cloth. For a limited time, I will include a piece of chaga mushroom and a piece of fat wood with any order, as long as I have some left it will be included with the order.

These are made a few at a time, so get them while there available.



I am now offering heat anodizing the piston tube and rod for an additional $20. Here are a few pictures:

This first piece was thrown in with a small tin that had paint on it. The paint seems to have fused to the tube and especially the rod, It gave it a marble look.

[arewethereyetdad]

I can't even figure out how to make my aluminum one work, but I NEED a titanium one. So, I'll take one!

[exodus125]

Here is an interesting article I came across. I thought it was pretty neat. I tried it with one of the fire pistons just to see what the sparks look like LIVE. Pretty cool.

http://www.popsci.com/diy/article/20...plain-ol-steel

[exodus125]

Just an update, I am almost finished with a final design. I will start the first build pretty soon.

[arewethereyetdad]

Originally Posted by exodus125

Just an update, I am almost finished with a final design. I will start the first build pretty soon.

Cool!

[orangegoat]

how long would it be before the first batch would be avalable?

[Viper715]

Hello Exodus. I want one they sure look sweet. Go ahead and add me to the list. I am glad to have sparked your inspiration with the review idea can't wait to see what people have to say. Good luck in your endeavors.

[exodus125]

Originally Posted by orangegoat

how long would it be before the first batch would be avalable?

The first batch should be ready in 1-3 months from now.

Originally Posted by Viper715

Hello Exodus. I want one they sure look sweet. Go ahead and add me to the list. I am glad to have sparked your inspiration with the review idea can't wait to see what people have to say. Good luck in your endeavors.

Thanks for the kind words.

[exodus125]

Here are some pieces a sent out to get anodized. They look pretty cool like this. Not sure which one I will send for the passaround, hmmmm...

[exodus125]

here is a helpful video I just uploaded regarding these fire pistons:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbsYXHwrzsU

[orangegoat]

Originally Posted by exodus125

The first batch should be ready in 1-3 months from now.

great, put my name on the list too.

thanks!

[exodus125]

Originally Posted by orangegoat

great, put my name on the list too.

thanks!

done

[orangegoat]

I am very sad to have to do this, but I have just run into some financial trouble and I can no longer afford one. So I guess you can take my name back off the list.

[exodus125]

sorry to hear, I will take you off the list.

[exodus125]

in exactly a month I will begin to make these. That is when I will have the supplies available. I mean it this time though. They will be available on a first come first served basis so if you really want one get on the list now.

[arewethereyetdad]

Originally Posted by exodus125

in exactly a month I will begin to make these. That is when I will have the supplies available. I mean it this time though. They will be available on a first come first served basis so if you really want one get on the list now.

You know who's first on that list.

[exodus125]

Originally Posted by arewethereyetdad

You know who's first on that list.

gryphonQ?

[arewethereyetdad]

Originally Posted by exodus125

gryphonQ?

Errrrrr. I think, in order of desire for this item, it would have me at the top.

[exodus125]

Originally Posted by arewethereyetdad

Errrrrr. I think, in order of desire for this item, it would have me at the top.

I believe it and appreciate it

[Josh K]

I'm in for one. Email me when they are available and done.

What colors are they coming in? Is plain Ti an option? How about adding some knurling to the piston handle?

[exodus125]

Originally Posted by Josh K

I'm in for one. Email me when they are available and done.

What colors are they coming in? Is plain Ti an option? How about adding some knurling to the piston handle?

Will do, since you only have one post I cant PM you or email you.

They will all be plain Ti (natural) finish. Knurling is not an option since I dont really know how to do that properly. I find it necessary though. The only place you have to really touch when using it is the bottom of the tube, which you push down on. knurling on the wall of the piston will really not function as anything. You have to hold it from there a bit as you push down , but all the force is coming from the push down, not the sides.

I had 2 pieces anodized and they look good, but its too much of a hassle and it wears off, especially from the banging and all that so I am sticking with the plain design.

[Josh K]

So after this post I'm promoted to full privilages?

You're turning these on a lathe right? Just something to grip besides the smooth titanium. End of the piston and end of the tube.

But if you can't, that's fine. I'm still in for at least one. Geek gadget factor I guess.

[exodus125]

Ok, got you down for one!

[Josh K]

Originally Posted by exodus125

Ok, got you down for one!

Thanks!

[exodus125]

OK, the materials have been ordered. As soon as I receive the stuff in the mail I will get to work and the first batch will be available for purchase within a few weeks. I will keep you guys updated through the process. Get them now if you want to get one because I do this on the side and I like to take my time (you can verify this with arewethereyetdad)

[Josh K]

Originally Posted by exodus125

OK, the materials have been ordered. As soon as I receive the stuff in the mail I will get to work and the first batch will be available for purchase within a few weeks. I will keep you guys updated through the process. Get them now if you want to get one because I do this on the side and I like to take my time (you can verify this with arewethereyetdad)

Sound good! Just let us know when you're ready for money.

Out of curiosity, is it possible to put a pin hole bleed valve in the bottom? I like being able to store the piston closed.

[exodus125]

Originally Posted by Josh K

Sound good! Just let us know when you're ready for money.

lol, I am ready right now if you like.

Originally Posted by Josh K

Out of curiosity, is it possible to put a pin hole bleed valve in the bottom? I like being able to store the piston closed.

if you want to store the piston closed, flip it and insert the other way. putting any kind of hole in the tube I think would be a bad idea. It will affect compression. Besides, at least with the stuff I have, don't know if a pin size hole is even possible.

[Josh K]

Originally Posted by exodus125

lol, I am ready right now if you like.

I'll get it to you within a week or so.

Originally Posted by exodus125

if you want to store the piston closed, flip it and insert the other way. putting any kind of hole in the tube I think would be a bad idea. It will affect compression. Besides, at least with the stuff I have, don't know if a pin size hole is even possible.

Pin sized (.001) won't affect compression much, but it will allow the piston to be inserted slowly. Normally I lube up the o-ring on the piston, so storing it upside down is a bit messy. Not to worry, not a deal breaker.

[exodus125]

Josh's question had me googling, they make a bit in a size 80, which has a diameter of 0.343 mm. Anyone know if they make anything smaller than that? Id hate to see how many bits you'd snap in half using those.

[Josh K]

Originally Posted by exodus125

Josh's question had me googling, they make a bit in a size 80, which has a diameter of 0.343 mm. Anyone know if they make anything smaller than that? Id hate to see how many bits you'd snap in half using those.

I think you're looking for something like these: http://drillcity.stores.yahoo.net/5pcpacnewwir.html

Expensive, but I'd hate to see how many steel drill bits you'd go through drilling any number of titanium pistons.

Setup would be a simple clamp and drill press I would think. Make the hole on the side as well. You're probably want to test it out on a piece before implementing it as a feature.

I just read about this on another site a couple months ago. Some modifications he made that seemed to work well. One was changing how the tinder was held (a slot was cut into the end instead of a little cup), the other was the bleed off hole.

If anyone's seen a Hinderer Kubotan, making a threaded end to the piston might also work. Unscrew, insert piston, rescrew and you've locked the piston in the chamber.