HDS Seoul Mod Step by step with pics

[tebore]

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[dixemon]

Nice tutorial! Thanks

[tebore]

Originally Posted by jemab

thanks for sharing your awesome hds mod. It has me excited about the possiblities. Can you say how long the runtime is on high now? I mean, unscientific of course... is it a comparable runtime to the orginal high? Is there any thermal shutdown?
Just wondering about your real world use of it, now that it is modded.
thanks,
jemab

Runtime in my the XR used in the mod is about the same. The rough measured times are within a margin of error. The XR isn't as bright as my non-XR.

However in MY B42 the runtime decreased. When I tested the Lux 3 U-bin that was replaced it had a really low vf it could be powered by 2 NiMHs at around 2.6-2.7volts at ~250ma. The SSC's also beat their Vfs being able to be started at 3v drawing around ~300ma.

Thermal stepdown on both lights won't happen if you're holding it. If you leave it on a table both lights step down at around 15 mins with the XR pushing the time a little more.

Real world use is great. I used to find myself using the Max levels often outside. Now I usually stick to the secondary on indoor tasks, bursting primary when I need more light. Primary for most outdoor tasks rarely needing Max.

The old primary level was around 10lm while it was alright for most indoor tasks it was pretty low outside. Now at around 40lm it's more useful.

[TranquillityBase]

Great mod, and tutorial...

Thanks for sharing tebore.

TB

[Walt175]

I was inspired to do this mod on my own B42, but I seem to have run into a small problem. My Lux is missing the notch that determines the polarity. Both sides look the same. Anyone have any tips on how to determine which side is positive?

[tebore]

Mark the module and the LED so you know how the LED came out.

Take 2 alkaline AAs wire it to the LED coming out until it lights up. Do the same for the SSC and you'll figure it out.

[rmcnelly]

Which SSC to use? And where to order? Where to find Arctic Silver 5 or suitable substitute?

[paxxus]

tebore, just what I need! Will read in detail later, thanks!

[rmcnelly]

Found Arctic Silver 5 carried locally at CompUSA and Radio Shack. Have an order in for one of AW's U bin SSC's, and am anxious to do the mod :-)

[Walt175]

Ok, I figured out the polarity, installed my Seoul, sanded the reflector, then screwed up the reflector by trying to rinse off some dust with rubbing alcohol.
For some strange reason, the reflector turned cloudy. I even rinsed the alcohol off with distilled water, but no good. The light still works, even better then stock, but I just don't like the foggy look. Anybody know where I can get a replacement? Stock, or what size IMS? McGizmo?

[tebore]

HDS is the only source. The reflector is abnormal size. McR20 might work with some modding but it's a lot of work to retain waterproofness.

The reflector should be cleaned with water only and dabbed dry.

[Walt175]

I wasn't expecting that, that's for sure. It wasn't the first time I've cleaned a reflector with an alcohol rinse, but it was the first time it turned foggy. Since I don't have a lot to loose at this point, maybe if getting it really soapy, then lightly cleaning with a lens cloth followed by a rinse of distilled water might work.

ETA: The soapy wash didn't work. Time to find a new reflector.

[matrixshaman]

Great info and pics - thanks tebore! This is one I may try sometime so I'm saving all this to the hard drive.

[aceo07]

Do you need any adhesive to glue the led to the module? Or does the reflector keep the led tight against the module?

How do I know when I've shaved enough off the reflector? What happens if it's just a bit too much?

Thanks for the great guide.

[Walt175]

I REALLY wish I had read this first : http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...23&postcount=3

[mcmc]

Walt, I would try polishing it or buffing it with a microfiber or old cotton cloth. There are probably some deposits that got left behind in the super-quick evaporation of the alcohol. (I got some foggy bits, but with a wipe of my clean pinky finger, they all went away, and no smudges on the reflector - but YMMV). If your reflector seems to have a more permanent foggyness, maybe a real polish like Flitz would do the job? and probably a Dremel buff.

I put my SSC in my U60 today (had one in my B42XRGT already), and tebore's little note that you might need a "quick wrist jerk" to get the module going, was the key! (on my B42 I'd just modded the led through the front opening of the light!). I defintely have to say that the non-XR version screams with the SSC, as everyone predicted it would since the XR's higher efficiency led requires less boost. I'm thinking, since it's a U60 my old led may have been too good an outputter for B42 status but not quite enough for U60, so needed a little boost, and obviously it wasn't efficient enough to qualify for XR status...so I got the benefit of both and now have a screamer on the SSC! =)

But one thing I want to warn about is to make sure you sand the reflector evenly. Btw, ace - I think if you sand it just shy of eliminating the whole tubular part of the reflector (at the narrow end of the cone, where it ceases following the cone and just juts straight out in a cylinder, for about <1mm long), you'll be good. You'll have a donut out to about 5 or 6", but I find that it gives the tightest throw and hotspot in return (even compared to the original HDS beam).

Happy modding guys! =)

[wasBlinded]

These reflector coatings are usually very fragile. Any kind of abrasion is likely to remove coating, so be very careful. I would only resort to using any kind of cloth on the reflector if there is no alternative except to buy a new one, and a replacement of some kind is available.


I think you can get a new reflector from Novatac for a reasonable price.

[Walt175]

I tried to wash it again, and it's definately not a deposit. I like the flitz idea, I think I'll give it a try. I have a few mild polishes I use on my dagger collection that should work well. I have also been toying with the idea of modding a Mcr-20 reflector.

As a side note, I also filed doen the reflector to the same point you did, and seem to have the same beam. Small donut hole if you get real close, 4-6 inches or so, but has a nice hotspot and good throw.

[Ty_Bower]

Originally Posted by Walt175

I like the flitz idea, I think I'll give it a try. I have a few mild polishes I use...

You cannot polish out a flashlight's reflector. You will strip off the reflective coating. Ignore the spot; anything more you do to it will only make things worse.

[wvaltakis2]

Thanks so much for the info, I just dropped an XO from AW in my U60 and it was a breeze. I'm not sure how much brighter it is, but the nasty purple tint is a pretty white now . One thing though, I tried out the reflector w/o sanding it and it's pretty dead on. There's a donut from about 0"-4", is it worth screwing with? With the old emmitter there was NO donut but I'm ok with the little bit I have now. Basically I'm asking if it's possible to focus it better or if I should be happy that I didn't have to sand it and leave well enough alone?

Thanks again,
~Wilfred "Chip" Valtakis II

[Utik]

I posted this same question in the HDS mod thread over in the Homemade and Modified lights forum, but thought this might be a more appropriate place.

How do you determine how deeply to screw the emitter package back into the light?

Since the guts can come out either end, do you:
1) Screw it back in further than you need.
2) Put in the reflector, o-ring, lens and bezel ring.
3) Go in from the bottom and screw the guts down tight against the reflector.

Also, if you do choose to sand the reflector, how do you prevent the gunk produced during the sanding from getting on the reflector surface?

[mcmc]

Utik, I think double-posting is frowned upon...but I did answer your 1-3 q's in that other thread.

About the gunk, if you dry sand, just blow it out gently with your breath. If wet sanding, just give it a quick rinse (preferably w/ distilled water to prevent deposits).

[Utik]

Thanks for the quick response and information. Point taken on the double post. Thanks for the heads up on that as well!

[mcmc]

No prob. Glad to help =) Are you just getting back into the scene? 14th post in 4 years, that's gotta be some record lol!

[tebore]

Have you opened the light yet? If you have you'll see that the light body has a lip and the package will tighten up to it. Make sure it's tightened up to it because that's how the module transmits the heat to the body.

[wvaltakis2]

I think my question may have gotten lost in the shuffle so here we go again. Mine went together w/o any sanding and the donut's only visible from 0-3", should I leave it alone or can it be focused further?

Thanks,
~Wilfred "Chip" Valtakis II

[tebore]

Originally Posted by wvaltakis2

I think my question may have gotten lost in the shuffle so here we go again. Mine went together w/o any sanding and the donut's only visible from 0-3", should I leave it alone or can it be focused further?

Thanks,
~Wilfred "Chip" Valtakis II

So you're asking us if you're happy? Well it can be fixed so that there is no donut. It's up to you if you should do it. If you screw it up you can call HDS for a new reflector.

[wvaltakis2]

Thanks tebore for the quick reply, and thanks again for the how-to. I just needed to know if it could be done before I did something destructive and pointless.

~Chip

[aceo07]

Originally Posted by aceo07

Do you need any adhesive to glue the led to the module? Or does the reflector keep the led tight against the module?

How do I know when I've shaved enough off the reflector? What happens if it's just a bit too much?

Thanks for the great guide.

Anybody know the answers to my questions?

Also, could I avoid shaving the reflector?

Thanks!

[aceo07]

oops. Double post due to server error.