ARC4+ Rev.2 (LuxIII Version)

**Roc** · 05-01-2005, 06:26 PM

If you want to upgrade your ARC4+, it is the easy way for you to replace the 1.25w LED to LuxIII.

Therefore,you can get a powerful ARC4+ and keep all original functions.

Left:ARC4+ Rev.2(LuxIII TX1H) / Right:ARC4+ Rev.2

Left:EDC-U 60 / Middle:ARC4+ Rev.2(LuxIII TX1H) / Right:ARC4+ Rev.2

[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

**4sevens** · 05-01-2005, 06:41 PM

Hi ROC,

Are you interested in letting go of one of your
arc4+ rev2's? I've been looking for one simply
because of the knurling near on the head.

I did the same thing to my my rev1 arc... except I
shoved a Lionheart circuit inside [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
It puts out TWICE the output in lux compared to my EDC HDS 60 !!!

And it also runs on primaries too... putting about 100ma into
the emitter (15 hour runtime)

[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

**ZuluWhiskeyFox** · 05-01-2005, 06:47 PM

OK Roc, you have peaked my intrest. How difficult was it to remove? Did you simply apply lots of force to unscrew. Did it require much force? The sides of that plug, What material is it? Is it glued in? Loctite? Did you do any freeze thaw tactics? You can't just leave us hanging with but a handful of pics [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] Tell us more. Enquiring minds want to know.

cy · 05-01-2005, 06:58 PM

I'd too would like to know how you removed without destroying

**nekomane** · 05-01-2005, 07:07 PM

WOW, how'd you do that?? Please tell us more.
And anyone who destroys an Arc4 in the process, PM me and I will purchase the remains [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]

**Sengoku** · 05-02-2005, 12:36 AM

what i dont get is why the hotspot is about 2x larger just by replacing the 1w with a 3w. The hotspot looks just like the EDC u 60.

**gregw** · 05-02-2005, 06:10 AM

[ QUOTE ]
Sengoku1986 said:
what i dont get is why the hotspot is about 2x larger just by replacing the 1w with a 3w. The hotspot looks just like the EDC u 60.

[/ QUOTE ]

I think it's the brightness in the centre of the hotspot that is over loading the camera, causing the hotspot to appear bigger than it actually appears to the eye.

**4sevens** · 05-02-2005, 10:07 AM

[ QUOTE ]
gregw said:
[ QUOTE ]
Sengoku1986 said:
what i dont get is why the hotspot is about 2x larger just by replacing the 1w with a 3w. The hotspot looks just like the EDC u 60.

[/ QUOTE ]

I think it's the brightness in the centre of the hotspot that is over loading the camera, causing the hotspot to appear bigger than it actually appears to the eye.

[/ QUOTE ]

I totally agree with that. If you set the shutter fast enough,
the hotspot will shrink [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

Which reminds me, some folks here just make shots of their beams
using their automatic setting and most of the the time the camera
will balance the exposure of the hotspot with the black background,
which will saturate the hotspot. Pretty much you can make an arc aaa
look like it's blasting the wall with intense light.

I hope people will realize that and start setting their cameras on
manual across all beamshots they compare. Otherwise the beam shots
are pretty much useless, because the camera will compensate. I
would name a few modders here doing that but I will refrain.

[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

**Vortex** · 05-02-2005, 12:47 PM

Roc, Please tell us how you took the Arc4 appart.

**ZuluWhiskeyFox** · 05-02-2005, 01:07 PM

[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/popcorn.gif[/img]

**Roc** · 05-02-2005, 07:36 PM

4sevens,
I am sorry.ARC4+(LuxIII) is mine, but another isn't.

The ARC4+ LE is fixed by black adhesive.
I think the adhesive is the same as SureFire.
I took some photos to show how I force to unscrew the ARC4+'s LE.

[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

cy · 05-02-2005, 07:47 PM

Roc, did you heat it up? or simply brute force?

**Vortex** · 05-02-2005, 09:56 PM

How is the emitter mounted on the Arc4? Was it epoxied? How did you get it off and how did you mount the new one?

**koala** · 05-03-2005, 07:17 AM

I did some drilling and got out some flake. The 'epoxy' is similiar to the one used to pot ARC LS First Run. It should be weak once heated.

UPDATE: Not shown in the images above is that the whole 'module' consists of two double sided circuit boards and a Can. If you over heat the epoxy and it becomes too weak you will risk ripping off components from the pcb. IMHO it's very risky procedure.

If you want to do so, heat the part near the luxeon and not near the threads. This is where the epoxy grabs the head. If you heat near the threads then you will weaken the epoxy which holds the pcb to the rest of the module.

More pics to come tommorow.

vince.

**ZuluWhiskeyFox** · 05-03-2005, 09:00 AM

I had a wee go at getting mine apart. I applied huge amounts of force, no heat. Nothing happened. It's still in there. Light strong like bull. Bull stronger than fox.

**Radagast** · 05-03-2005, 10:00 AM

[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wow.gif[/img]

**Roc** · 05-03-2005, 06:22 PM

Yes,I heated it up by the electric iron.
I am not sure whether it is useful to unscrew the LE.
I applied a lot of strength to unscrew it.
[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img]

**koala** · 05-04-2005, 04:41 AM

You need alot of courage to disassemble/kill one Arc4+.

If you look at the second picture, it is the 'can' that you want to remove. Look again closely, you can see groove under the PCB(printed circuit board) hole. You will need a removal tool, something similiar to the needle nose plier shown in the first image. However it is not a suitable tool.

Best tool is a custom made tool that not only go through the PCB holes but also fits nicely in to the 'can' grooves.

If you use a needle nose plier, make sure that you are applying force on to the 'can' instead of the PCB. There's a high possiblility of ripping off the top PCB with unsuitable tools. The 'can' wall is very thin, you can slip while turning you won't know it because the PCB is there to hold your tool so check often that you are in the grooves instead of the PCB. You want to unscrew the 'can' not the PCB.

Not shown in above images, the sandwich is connected via numerous jumper pins. The inductor was ripped off and pending repairs.

ullhair: The luxeon is attached with only thermal paste. The whole 'can' is covered/filled with very thick thermal paste, it was a tough job cleaning it without proper cleaning agent.

I heated the head and did many mistakes. I would say I am two? times lucky. I had a few components ripped off but they can be soldered back. Disassembly without the knowledge of construction leads to a risky result.

The 'can' and sandwich is pot with epoxy. I used brutal ways to remove the pcb. I wouldn't have any idea to remove it in a proper job.

I had to boil the pcb to scratch off all the epoxy. The epoxy becomes soft and flexible like hard rubber once heated. It can then be 'skinned' off from the circuit board while it sits in the boiling water. You have to be wearing gloves or turn off the heat if not you can have steamed fingers for dinner

vince.

cy · 05-04-2005, 05:26 AM

whoaa... nice pic's!

**koala** · 05-04-2005, 07:02 AM

I haven't seen many pics on the Arc4+ insides so I took them for reference purposes. I hope it will help those who need it for repairs/modding.

I hooked up my Arc4+ Luxeon to the test bench and measured the forward voltage.

350ma - 3.33 volts
700ma - 3.67 volts

So it seems that I've got a xxxJ bin where vf is between 3.27 - 3.51volts.

In addition to the inductor, the part number is DR74-4R7. That's a 4.7uH 0.0297Ohm capable of pumping around 3 amps of current(3.78A peak). Coilcraft or Cooper Bussmann[datasheet] makes them.

**ZuluWhiskeyFox** · 05-04-2005, 12:14 PM

Your pictures might come in helpful for repairs. Mine is coming apart but it's not going well. The first pcb twisted off and left all its components behind in the epoxy. The wall of the can is very thin. The tool I was using slipped from the notches in the can and twisted off the first pcb. I'm of the feeling that in all likely hood this will be the outcome for most who try this procedure. The odds are not in your favour. The wall of that can is very thin. Not much meat there to grab a hold of. The amount of force needed is tremendous. Clearly Peter did not intend these to come apart once assembled.

**NewBie** · 07-23-2005, 08:02 AM

Here are some more from one I did in October 2004:

http://www.molalla.net/~leeper/arcsw3.jpg
http://www.molalla.net/~leeper/arcsw2.jpg
http://www.molalla.net/~leeper/arcsw1.jpg

From one I did in August 2004:
http://www.molalla.net/~leeper/arcproc.jpg

**Sengoku** · 09-20-2005, 10:54 AM

First of all i would like to thank BoBG for selling me his arc4+ at an excellent price! and cpfers for the guidance.
I replaced the Lux1 of the Arc4+ rev1 with a overacheiving TWOJ, and did a CY's tailcap mod v1.3(instead of a solder blob, i used a 1mm thick magnet) plus added UCL and filler screws.

As level 1(burst) on arc4s runs at 700-800mA, i thought running a luxIII at spec would be better than overdriving the poor luxI(recommended 350mA?)
This mod is very risky, luckily i didnt break anything. I used a heat gun and needle nose pliers.

i took a few photos.

There was sooo much black epoxy and thermal paste on the can!

Before:Arc4 left, HDS B60 right

After: HDS B60 left, Arc4 TWOJ right(sorry about the mix up)

Now its twice as bright but still no match for my B60.

**Sengoku** · 09-20-2005, 12:06 PM

Hey since i got it opened how about putting a 5w in there? has any tried that? will it work?

**MoonRise** · 09-20-2005, 12:34 PM

A low Vf binned Lux-3 is in the same/general Vf range as a Lux-1. Somewhere in the 3.xx volt range.

A Lux-V is in the 6.xx to 8.xx Volt range.

Chances are that the driver board won't drive the output voltage high enough to get the set current output to actually output.

AW · 09-20-2005, 12:34 PM

It 'll sure work if you 've got some J or K bin Lux V.

**Sengoku** · 09-20-2005, 01:07 PM

i see, even if it does work, it will be underdriven

AW: haha! in my dreams!
Ill be waiting patiently for the K2.....

**Sean** · 09-20-2005, 03:01 PM

Sengoku,

What did you do to your Arc4 switch?

**HDS_Systems** · 09-20-2005, 11:10 PM

Sengoku,

The electronics in the Arc4 will drive a Luxeon V to around 3.5 watts without difficulty - which might be considered a bit under driven. The electronics will be less efficient than when driving a lower Vf LED since the synchronous rectifier in that design is not able to dynamically compensate for large changes in Vf - the code in your flashlight was compiled for lower Vf LEDs. You will loose about 10% efficiency due to the non-optimal operation of the synchronous rectifier. However, the electronics has no problem driving the higher output voltage. Remember, the circuit is a constant power circuit and therefore it will increase the voltage to match the LED. The circuit was designed from the very beginning to drive Luxeon V emitters. That old software just needs a different set of compiled-in parameters to do so with maximum efficiently.

Besides the electronics, the optics are not optimized for the larger emitting surface and it will generate a much wider (more diffuse) beam pattern. And "under driving" the Luxeon V will improve emitter efficiency and thus make up for some of the loss from the poorly tuned synchronous rectifier.

Henry.

**Sengoku** · 09-21-2005, 01:12 AM

Thanks for the detailed explanation Henry. Its worth a try, im thinking of putting in a WWOS 147.7-192.0 lumens, 5.91V - 6.39V
But the stock reflector might produce a "donut hole"

Sean: Heres about the tailcap mod: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=49422

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