WATER violating my quark High CRI mini CR2?!?!

[dieselducy]

Ok I have been using quark flashlights in VERY wet environments for years. The power was out and i used the HighCRI mini CR2 in the bathtub, I get out and notice it flickering and the lens fogged up. I open up the light and to my surprise, some water has entered the light. I thought it was supposed to be water tight, I did manage to remove all the water and upon airing out the light it still functions as it should. My question, are the mini lights not as water proof as the standard quarks which i have used underwater in MANY occasions with NO issues. ANOTHER thing i notice! Upon conducting several experiments, water only violates the flashlight while the flashlight is in the ON position (head tightened down) now when the light is off, water is not violating the flashlight, I am thinking when my light is turned on, maybee some of the threads on the head press into the o ring??

[4sevens]

Diesel - first thing to check is the oring - make sure it's not broken, and that it's clean and free from any debris and lubricated. If it's still leaking or showing signs of problems please send it back to us to check out.

[dieselducy]

Mod plz delete

[dieselducy]

Diesel - first thing to check is the oring - make sure it's not broken, and that it's clean and free from any debris and lubricated. If it's still leaking or showing signs of problems please send it back to us to check out.

The strange thing, it ONLY leaks when the light is in the on (tightened) position. I am wondering if the threads could be going down over the o ring, I set it next to my TI mini CR2 and i notice that the head is maybee appx 1mm lower which leads me to think when i tighten it to turn it on, is it chewing into the oring hence creating a gap in the water tight seal?? Also what do u recommend lubing the o rings with?

[4sevens]

The strange thing, it ONLY leaks when the light is in the on (tightened) position. I am wondering if the threads could be going down over the o ring, I set it next to my TI mini CR2 and i notice that the head is maybee appx 1mm lower which leads me to think when i tighten it to turn it on, is it chewing into the oring hence creating a gap in the water tight seal?? Also what do u recommend lubing the o rings with?

It's not likely that the threads are reaching it - I'd be very surprised if it was - all the casings are made on CNC machines and should be identical. Would you inspect the orings for any cuts or out-of-the-ordinary wear? Any general purpose lube is fine. I usually recommend nyogel. I prefer thinner stuff like deoxit (which is technically not a lube but it's dielectric and has lubricating properties). If you're careful not to wipe off the lube each time you change batteries then the lube should last a very long time.

-David

[dieselducy]

Ok I think ill be contacting cust service at some point, I have tried the replacement Oring, and lube and water STILL voilates the light ONLY when it is on. I will say this, I noticed when i bought the light that the "module" was loose in the light, i put my pinky on the battery contact and rotated the head and it went into place. I had this same issue with an Itp eos light but water does not violate it. Anyway I also conducted another experiment, i took the oring itself off the light and went to tighten the head and noticed it has a firm stop when it gets to the on position. WITH the oring, i notice a stronger resistance RIGHT as it hits the on position which leads me to believe that the threads on the head are contacting the Oring. I believe the module is "too deep" in the light and that is what is causing the problem. Is this something that could be fixed here in the USA or would the light have to be sent off??

[4sevens]

Ok I think ill be contacting cust service at some point, I have tried the replacement Oring, and lube and water STILL voilates the light ONLY when it is on. I will say this, I noticed when i bought the light that the "module" was loose in the light, i put my pinky on the battery contact and rotated the head and it went into place. I had this same issue with an Itp eos light but water does not violate it. Anyway I also conducted another experiment, i took the oring itself off the light and went to tighten the head and noticed it has a firm stop when it gets to the on position. WITH the oring, i notice a stronger resistance RIGHT as it hits the on position which leads me to believe that the threads on the head are contacting the Oring. I believe the module is "too deep" in the light and that is what is causing the problem. Is this something that could be fixed here in the USA or would the light have to be sent off??

We need to inspect it before we can make that determination. If we can resolve it here then we won't need to set it back - it depends how sealed is the module. -David

[dieselducy]

well my light is on its way back. Ill update once it gets here. I do want to give a BIG shout out to Trevor as he has kept me well informed the whole time.