That RED is awesome . . .
Awww, I don't see mine up there
I removed the fins on my new Ti+ yesterday using the Nokoff Method (see post #345). Worked like a charm. There was no metal spacer in this light, only the 2 o-rings and lots and lots of Loctite.
Package recieved with Trit-fin. Looks and fits great
Now for those mesmerizing switches..
p.s. Steve.. Thanks for your answer on the nordland. Anyway I can't consider myself outta luck with stuff like this
Paypal sent for 1 switch with 3 red trits + extra switch.
Gosh those switches looks so nice.
can't wait to see mine!
Awesome work Steve.
PayPals received and orders logged, confirmations sent via email.
Sorry, I have to do these in batches since QC needs to be tighter than usual for these things.
I will be processing them in the order that PP was received.
If that's the case, you will need a sharp xato knife and a pair of needle nose tweezers.
Take the knife and use multiple passes to slit the norland lengthwise directly over the trit.
Angle the knife so you are cutting from the side of the trit slot towards the trit and make more cuts.
Use your tweezers to peel the norland off.
The top 1/2 of your trit should be exposed now.
Use your knife again to cut away as much of the norland as you can from the sides and ends.
Soak the entire thing in acetone. The longer the better. (I don't think this really helps but it can't hurt)
Use your tweezers and slowly lift the trit from one end. There are little dimples on the ends of the trits that will allow you to get a little purchase on the trit. Careful not to apply too much pressure or angle the tweezers too far and poke the bottom of the dimple.
If you are willing to destroy the trit in the process, just use tweezers and gouge it out.
I also suggest using hot water. Try searching on CPF proper. I ended up using a cup of very hot water (just off boiling) to soften the Norland, then dug the trit ou with a iny swiss army knife. Used this on a trit piston.
Hi Steve, e-mail sent in regards to 6-trit switch.....thanks!
Sorry to report that some switches from the first batch still hasn't shipped yet.
Some of these switches have gone in for trit installation for the third time, bubbles keep popping up during final QC.
Good news is I think I figured out the problem and I should be able to ship a lot more next week.
Sorry for the delay.
Email sent and paypal sent.
Thank you for your diligence. Great things take time.
Im happier to hear that your correcting the bubbles instead of sending them out! Now THATS something to respect.
WTB - V10R Ti and a Kuku 18650 tube
Is the Ti clip for v10r ti/ti+ on the run currently? Thanks.
I'm also interested in the clip... if you want to put me on the list, that'd be awesome. Thanks!
Guess i have to keep an eye on this tread for the clip run. Is there a list already??
Can I also be put on the list for the trit mod on the v10r ti+?
Today`s situationan is?
No switches are being shipped today.
So far only ~35% of all switch orders have been shipped.
I got an E series switch this week.
It works...but the whole unit is short. If you are replacing a McClicky, expect to lose 0.5cm in the contact length and to adjust accordingly. I had to extend the contact spring with a ball magnet, and this works well enough. Now it at least works in my TB hosts (E series tails). I have not tried it in a McClicky pack from Don, but in principle it should fit. I wonder how snug the o-ring fitted above the switch will sit, and how much the shorter length will affect battery snugness or contact. I expect you will still have the same problem with needing a longer spring. The magnet actually works well in that the battery needs to be pulled out and will not fall out. I don't mind this.
I also could not fit this switch into the tail holder of the TnC P60 host (Ti, 18350) tail which holds a McClicky (without threading, just in a holder of the correct dimensions). This holder is supposed to fit a VDM Fetie switch, but I don't have one of those...just the McClicky it came with and this switch cannot replace it because of size. Some light sanding would likely fix this issue, as the clearance is almost there. However, I am selling that host, so no need for me to go messing about with this resizing.
I would not be able to replace all the switches in my E series lights, as the loss of the tap on blink of the McClicky can be missed often. But it is nice bling for a few light for sure.
Last edited by Obijuan Kenobe; 04-26-2012 at 02:41 AM.
I imagine Steve will include the same or similiar part with this run.. (?)
I got my new switch but cant get the original one out, used hemostats and needle nose pliers but they just slip off leaving nasty scratches.
Anyone have any ideas on how to get it out?