Could shielding the mode hall sensors from the tailcap magnet with dielectric film(s) be a possible cure?
Could shielding the mode hall sensors from the tailcap magnet with dielectric film(s) be a possible cure?
The flashlight can be poweron if you put a magnet just near it. Ok
But did it appened in the real life ? is it really an issue ?
i have no problems with this flashlight, i generaly don't have strong magnet in my pocket.
I have some neodymium magnets I can recreate switching on and off in what I would call the soft lockout(far left switch) For me though the hard lockout(1/4 unscrew of tailcap) works as it should. I like the magnetic switch, and think this was a unforeseen consequence. I imagine some EMI shielding in future versions could solve this.
I looked at the youtube video, I would think your anodizing has been damaged or was faulty.
EDIT: It needs to be a very high flux to flip the switch on mine. Flux is reduced by distanced squared(inverse square) it has to be very strong or very close. I can't seem to do it with my car, old farm truck or motorhome. I will use hard lockout(unscrew tailcap 1/4 turn) just to be safe.
Last edited by ToyTank; 07-27-2011 at 07:28 AM.
Thrunite stated that even unscrewed contact is possible. Areas that are suspect (I think) are the two small pins that contact the side (especially if the anodization there isn't very good) and the bulkiness of the internals of the switch when the cap is loosely attached.
I can get mine to activate with a very strong, rare earth magnet held very close. Nothing else seems to affect it.
Now I know why my cell was dead in the morning after I left the light in a car door. Just recreated it. Also now I know why my light suddenly turned on in strobe mode last Friday when I walked next to a speaker cabinet in a dark club. Also recreated it. Variation of magnetic polarities activate different modes. The magnet does not have to be strong, just large enough to have a distinct field.
Got 2 different bare subs sitting on the floor, the light turns on in diff modes when brought to the distance of about 6 inches.
Basically it'll behave erratically when it's close to any electromagnetic field that matches the settings of the HAL in the UI controller. The only way to prevent it is to either have a TRUE lock-out setting which has to physically break the connection (unscrew), or to make the switch with a magnetic shielding ring, just like it was done for many years in center channel speakers and subwoofers so they won't distort the CRTs of big screens.
Basically it looks like I've spent $200 on a toy, and in my case on one with a dirty tint XM-L... Not cool.
Gonna try to do a vid here with a crappy cam.
Vid of fun playing with magnets and such;
http://rutube.ru/tracks/4696134.html...55d332d81bfa59
On the video, we can see you have to put the flashlight very near the speaker magnet...
is it an issue in real life use ?
The switch work with magnet so it's not strange if a strong magnet can power it up.
A regular switch can be power on in your pocket if you puch the button with something else than the finger. Do you complain for that ?
when i use the scorpion in real police operations, i don't have problem with it because i don't put heavy speakers in my pockets an my gun don't have electromagnetic field.
I can't belive why people are so surprise with this "issue" that doesn't appeare in real life.
it's not EDC but tactical flashlight. ( for the more, i always remove batteries from my favorits tools when i'm not in operation.)
It does appear in real life. My Blackberry cell phone case (which uses a magnet to lock the phone) turns my light on if it gets close. I carry that on my belt at work all the time. I've also thrown it into my backback where I used to keep my light and it turned it on. This is "real life."
In my honest opinion..... if a tactical flashlight can't even be used reliably as an EDC...... I would NEVER IN A MILLION YEARS trust it in a life threatening scenario.
I absolutley loved everything about this light EXCEPT for this one big issue. I couldn't even lock mine out reliably. How tactical would your light be if you got to work and it was dead because it had turned on? No way you can honestly expect people to FULLY remove the battery everytime we put it down?
I'm glad it works for you, but it most certainly does not for me.
My website with flashlight information: lygte-info.
Flashlight reviews and outdoor beamshots in English, battery and charger test in English, DMM guide in English.
I'm not sure about that. What I'm saying is that in real life mine was coming that close to a magnet. Example: When I went to the gym, I threw my blackberry into the same pouch as the light. The case and the light were touching. It turned on.
I have not experienced it turning on in a car like some, but I'm simply saying for me, in my daily routine, a magnet was indeed coming close enough to turn mine on. Could I make a concious effort for this not to happen? Of course. But I shouldn't have to.
edit: If the lockout was more reliable I actually would have been perfectly happy, but mine also had an unreliable lockout for whatever reason. This made this light ultimately not something I can rely on.
Thanks for your suggestions. we conside this lights as a tactical flashlights. and carry together with our holster. it is very convenient for tactical applications.military. law enforcement applications. we hope it is carried in holster. can support the police. when it is needed.so max output. and lock out for operation applications. it will be accidently actived by magnetic. it is not avoided for all magnetic cotroll lights. So I think you just choose the best application. if you choose a mechnical switch. then you can power off as well when you press accidently. and the mechanical switch are easily damged when drive it hard. the high current will damage it. but magnetic will not!
THis is a tactical flashlights. not a EDC.
The speaker on the video has a magnetic shield glued to the main magnet, it's the ring that prevents interference to CRTs and other EM sensitive gear, so with out it activation distance would actually be greater.
In real life, as I posted before, last week I walked close to a speaker bin in a club and the light flashed. HAL sensor switches have been used for some time (Gladius), maybe Scorpion was made with overly sensitive ones, and with a weaker activation magnet, I don't know.
I love the switch, it's exactly why I was interested in Scorpion to begin with, and I understand that it's a tactical and not a EDC light. Overall I think it's a great light.
I did notice that remote activation only occurs in lock-out, while in any other mode there is no effect what so ever. Would adding a separate, dedicated lock out magnet to the assembly actually lock out the controller it self, by tripping a dedicated lock-out HAL sensor?
Currently lock-out is mechanical only while the type of operation is magnetic, which in various situations is activated remotely, so technically speaking the safest way to keep it is on any mode of choice, but with the cap unscrewed.
As far as the holster, the belt loop of the original one tore of the second time I whore it (single row, single thread wide step stitching), and even if it held up, the Turbo head does not fit into it, so I clip-carried it last week when it was activated remotely by a speaker magnet in the club.
I just recreated that with the first two items I thought of that are carried around; a camera pouch and a Sena case. Both have magnetic snaps, both trip sensors when in contact with the tail cap.
Camera pouch vid;
http://rutube.ru/tracks/4698439.html...ea56ddf9d65e6d
Sena case vid;
http://rutube.ru/tracks/4698430.html...fcaca319d45034
Last edited by topolM; 08-06-2011 at 01:47 AM. Reason: fixed links
I vaguely remember this also being an issue with the Gladius.
Too Many lights
http://www.md-lightsource.com
Stocking Crelant / Xtar / Klarus / FourSevens / EagleTac/ Niteye
Thrunite, I was wondering if the remote pressure switch for the V1 Scorpion will work with the V2? Thanks.
sorry can not!
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