Got my M30 from BJ two days ago. Holy Cow Batman!!! This is now the brightest light I own. Compared it to my two other MC-E big guns, an MRV SK Ultra and a DBS V3/MC-E. It easily overpowers both, and these are no slouches in the output department. I am surprised at how well it throws. My MRV SK/XR-E Q5 and DBS V3/XR-E R2 will out-throw it, but they are my only big lights that will. It will easily out-throw a Malkoff M60 and a regular P60 size R2 dropin, and the M20 as well, and it does so with not just a little hot spot, but with awesome breadth.
Love the UI. Size-wise, it is very comparable in general size and shape to an MRV SK. Reflector is the best I've seen yet in an MC-E light. It really tames the beast. Much more throwy than either the MRV Ultra or the DBS MC-E. At a few feet, you might see a hint of cross shaped artifact, but from 5 or 6 feet on, it vanishes. The (removeable) crenelated ring does make a wierd pentagon shaped edge to the beam's outer boundary. The tint on mine is beautiful, very close to the WD R2's on my M20s, maybe a tad warmer. Waiting for a clear night without rain to really see what this baby can do. Flashlight of the Year-2009.
Now, down to a power question for Matt. I'm running 3 primaries for the initial go, but I can use 2 18650's. I'd rather not use the extension though, and three 16340's gets tedious. I'm thinking about your suggested pair of 18500's. Not familiar with these yet. Can you recommend a charger that works well with them? I have a pair of TL-100's for my 18650's and 16340's. Will these chargers work, and do I need spacers?
Mike
1dash1
05-08-2009, 10:07 AM
Can you recommend a charger that works well with them? I have a pair of TL-100's for my 18650's and 16340's. Will these chargers work, and do I need spacers?
Mike
Mike:
The TL-100's will work, but you might consider upgrading to the Pila IBC. Link. (http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=2928796)
You can order 15mm spacers to charge the 18500 cells in your TL-100 from AW, Lighthound, and others.
BTW, the 2x18500's are my favorite way of powering the M30.
If you were thinking about purchasing IMR18500's, do it for the safe chemistry or because you might also use them with other high output lights. Otherwise, AW18500's work just fine in the M30.
MattK
05-10-2009, 03:48 PM
The TL-100 will work perfectly for 2 x 18500's and no spacers et are necessary.
The IBC referenced above is a very good charger but it costs 3 times as much - more with spacers.
1dash1
05-10-2009, 05:23 PM
Matt:
Thanks for the correction. :o
P.S. I went back and reviewed the product spec's and pictures (http://www.tenergybattery.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=91&category_id=17&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=27). How do the 18500 cells fit without spacers? I don't see any adjustable slides and there's nothing in the description to indicate such support. Just curious, thanks!
TodToh
05-10-2009, 11:01 PM
Matt or M30 owner
I want to know.Did M30 head and tail-switch were glued or not?
1dash1
05-11-2009, 12:19 AM
Matt or M30 owner
I want to know.Did M30 head and tail-switch were glued or not?
TodToh:
The steel bezel comes off fairly easily. However, I couldn't get the head apart, even using strap wrenches. I gave up after a few attempts. If you really need to open the head, I would suggest trying a combination of heat and torque.
The tailcap can be opened by unscrewing the cover plate within the tail. It's not glued. Once the insides are exposed, you will see the parts for the side-switch are jammed in there. Quite dodgy. (I was unwilling to risk further disassembly because I wasn't sure I could put it back together again.)
EDIT:
Clarification. I could not remove the head from the body. I easily removed the top portion of the head (containing the reflector) and easily removed the steel bezel from the head.
HKJ
05-11-2009, 12:32 AM
The steel bezel comes off fairly easily. However, I couldn't get the head apart, even using strap wrenches.
On my M30 it is the opposite, the head is easy to take off (No tools required), but I can not take the bezel off (I have not tried to use tools yet).
easilyled
05-11-2009, 02:51 AM
On my M30 I could loosen the bezel-ring and the top part of the head.
ie. the portion of the head in front of the led.
I couldn't loosen the back part of the head connected to the cell body though.
The instruction booklet is misleading in this regard because it advocates the use of loading batteries either by unscrewing the tailcap
or by unscrewing the head where it is attached to the body.
TodToh
05-11-2009, 05:02 AM
Thank you for every answer.:thumbsup:
MattK
05-12-2009, 07:44 AM
I' pretty sure the heads are glued.
Mikey V
05-12-2009, 09:34 AM
The TL-100 will work perfectly for 2 x 18500's and no spacers et are necessary.
The IBC referenced above is a very good charger but it costs 3 times as much - more with spacers.
Matt, While I'm sure the electronics are compatible, I can't see how they will fit a TL-100 without spacers. I fit 18650's in the long bays, and 16340's in the short crosswise bays, which is obviously too short for 18500's. If 18650's equal the length of two 16340's, and 18500's equal the length of one and a half 16340's, how can the 18500's be long enough to touch both sides of the long bay that holds a much longer 18650? Seems they would be half the length of one 16340 too short to make it. What am I missing?!
Mike
1dash1
05-12-2009, 11:20 AM
On my M30 it is the opposite, the head is easy to take off (No tools required), but I can not take the bezel off (I have not tried to use tools yet).
Try this trick that I've used to remove bezels from other flashlights:
Take a mousepad and place it flat onto a solid surface. Place the flashlight, bezel down, onto the mousepad. Now, applying firm pressure directly down on the mousepad (as perpendicular to the surface as possible), twist the flashlight in a counterclockwise direction.
The trick works by providing more uniform torque over the entire circumference of the threads.
HKJ
05-12-2009, 11:33 AM
Try this trick that I've used to remove bezels from other flashlights:
Take a mousepad and place it flat onto a solid surface. Place the flashlight, bezel down, onto the mousepad. Now, applying firm pressure directly down on the mousepad (as perpendicular to the surface as possible), twist the flashlight in a counterclockwise direction.
The trick works by providing more uniform torque over the entire circumference of the threads.
Thanks for the idea, I have used this trick before and it might do it, but I have not put a high priority on removing the bezel.
I did disassemble the tailcap, I wanted to see how it worked :grin2:
Fenix Outfitters
05-12-2009, 05:03 PM
Thanks Matt! I got the light and love it. Always a pleasure!
selfbuilt
05-13-2009, 06:03 AM
FYI, my M30 review is now up:
Olight M30 Triton Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS and more! (http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=231491)
Thanks Matt for sending it along.
MattK
05-13-2009, 06:45 AM
Awesome job as always - my pleasure! :)
wapkil
05-13-2009, 12:16 PM
Matt, do you know if Olight has plans to offer a revised version of the M30 circuit, with a higher PWM frequency?
I was contemplating buying the M30 and I still think it's a great light but after the initial reports and this Selfbuilt's review I'm sure I couldn't stand the low PWM. Fro many people it's not a probelm but unfortunately I'm highly sensitive to any flickering. Are there any hopes that it will be improved?
MattK
05-13-2009, 05:11 PM
I don't know of any plans right now but the factory has been made aware of the review and the questions raised. Based on Olights past performance I would esxpect to see them do everything possible to improve their products on an ongoing basis. As most users are focused on the max output most of the time I don't think it will be an issue unless one focuses on it looking for 'a problem'.
Buyers that have bought/received the M30 have been almost universally delighted. Remember, CPF is the kind of place where sometimes folks look for 'faults' to pick over and analyze. It's the nature of CPF - no light has ever been made that was found faultless here. :)
If you read the reviews and comments discussing the PWM most have said that it's STILL a fantastic light and they love it but hope that this area can be improved.
Quotes from the primary M30 thread on CPF proper:
I hope I haven't come off as being too harsh on the M30.
It's an outstanding flashlight! Perfect size. Handsome. 3-flats feel so good in the hand. Weight evenly balanced. Well built. Innovative UI. Extraordinarily flexible battery options. Excellent runtimes. Fully regulated output. Great high mode! Comes with a nice case and a full complement of accessories. And backed up by great vendors and a great company. :hitit:
While I'm an admitted newb to highend flashlights, I would never have noticed the slow PWM if I hadn't read it here. There have been a lot of little complaints, but I think this is a fantastic light. Unless you are really finicky with these things, as I'm sure many of you are, I wouldn't worry about it. I'm very happy with this light, and I definitely recommend it. I just got it today, and I cannot wait to see it in the night.
personally i could only notice the PWM issue if i tried to notice it (waving it around like a crazy person and seeing the trail of "dots" on the wall). i cannot foresee a situation in which this could be anything more than a very minor nuisance, if any at all (with my eyes and my light...yours may differ).
as far as the lost spill from the crenelated bezel goes, i really don't think it will be possible to make one that does NOT interfere at least slightly with the spill. if you remove it, turn the light on in the dark and look at the threads to which the bezel screws into, even they catch a wee little bit of light, so naturally anything you attach to those threads will too. life's full of tough choices... losing a couple percent of the very outer part of your spill or losing your ability to make someone need [as many] stitches after you hammer-blow them with the thing... the call is yours to make.
also it seems as though the strobe although totally overwhelming, doesn't have quite the same "i'm drunk" effect as my "first light tomahawk" or my gladius. i think this may be due to a faster strobe rate. i would be mucho curious for someone else to sacrifice their corneas as i have in a comparison with other known good tactical strobers.
...
my only other negative is also one that has not been brought up as of yet, and it is probably nit-picky. the finish on the light should be matte. preferably the same sort of rough and battle-proven coating that is applied to firearms and knife blades and a lot of other "tactical" flashlights. it kind of has a semi-gloss thing going on and i'm not a fan of it.
with that being said, it's a solid 9 out of 10.
I disagree.
IMO the PWM frequency is barely noticible, not a real issue for me.
wapkil
05-14-2009, 04:34 AM
Thank you for the answer. I know that for many users and situations the PWM wouldn't be an issue but for me it would - that's just the way my eyes and brain work.
I'm glad that Olight was informed about it and I would be delighted if they decided to make this great light even better. Maybe they could design and offer alternative tailcaps for different tasks, e.g. for higher PWM, single mode - max power, no strobe version, etc. This light is already close to perfect for me and that would make it simply perfect :)
Mikey V
05-14-2009, 05:15 AM
I tried in vain last night to detect any PWM. Sorry, but my eyes just don't pick it up. This is simply an awesome light. I did spot a very slight donut hole as Selfbuilt's review indicates, but this doesn't really show up in normal use, only when flashing it on a blank wall and looking hard for it. It is perhaps a slightly less bright center in the overall bright hotspot. It certainly isn't a dark spot. Matt, on the spacers needed for the 18500, are you perhaps confusing a WF-139 with a TL-100? I think the WF-139 has sliders to adjust between a 18650 and a shorter 18500.
Mike
MattK
05-14-2009, 06:04 AM
I tried in vain last night to detect any PWM. Sorry, but my eyes just don't pick it up. This is simply an awesome light. I did spot a very slight donut hole as Selfbuilt's review indicates, but this doesn't really show up in normal use, only when flashing it on a blank wall and looking hard for it. It is perhaps a slightly less bright center in the overall bright hotspot. It certainly isn't a dark spot. Matt, on the spacers needed for the 18500, are you perhaps confusing a WF-139 with a TL-100? I think the WF-139 has sliders to adjust between a 18650 and a shorter 18500.
Mike
Mike - Same here. I have to 'try' to see it (waving hand).
We measured and the 'cross' isn't visible at 1M, you had to be within like 20" of a wall to see it.
Yah, I spaced on the chargers. We're actually developing our own 15mm spacer to offer with this charger and should have them relatively soon. Sorry if I caused any confusion!
ergotelis
05-14-2009, 07:29 AM
Maybe a lot of small magnets can solve the problem with the charger!That is what i do!
MattK
05-18-2009, 06:53 AM
Coming next week:
M30 Red Filters
M30 Green Filters
M30 Spare Battery Magazines
Pressure switch is ~30 days out.
nden
05-18-2009, 07:17 AM
Hi MattK,
I'm trying to order on your site, What's the best "fast" shipping method to TORONTO, Canada. Please let me know.
MattK
05-18-2009, 10:41 AM
Our standard shipping is USPS Priority Mail - the least expensive, insurable method to Canada. If you prefer we can also offer Express Mail (EMS) which is usually 30-50% more - for EMS please call in and speak with a customer service rep and they will give you a quotation.
nden
05-18-2009, 01:13 PM
Our standard shipping is USPS Priority Mail - the least expensive, insurable method to Canada. If you prefer we can also offer Express Mail (EMS) which is usually 30-50% more - for EMS please call in and speak with a customer service rep and they will give you a quotation.
Thanks,
I tried using the shipping calculation when checking out, but it doesn't sum up with the item in cart. Is it free shipping?
Yes. I sent an email to customer service, and still waiting for respond.
1dash1
05-21-2009, 04:16 PM
Some feedback taken from other threads on the CPF forums:
I'd like to see a less "tactical" version of the M30 with the strobe only on the side button and higher low and medium modes. Also with less agressive tailcap scalloping. Oh, and no PWM issues although I'm less sensitive to the problem than most.
As it's currently configured I can't justify replacing my DBS MC-E with it.
Originally Posted by 1dash1 http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/images/buttons/viewpost.gif (http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=2958690#post2958690)
Pre-sale, I didn't like the idea of a crenelated tailcap. After receiving the light, I changed my opinion. It tailstands, it's easy to operate, it's not too "pointy", it prevents accidental actuation of the light. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif
Three things that I personally would like to see changed in the tailswitch design:
1. A slightly bigger sideswitch button. Olight thoughtfully provided an instant access strobe feature. But they did it with a UI that is difficult to find without taking the user's eye off the relevant danger and onto the flashlight to hunt for the button. (In a crisis situation the flat area in front of the button is of no value.) And they did it with a UI that is difficult to actuate with one hand. A slightly larger diameter button and a slightly raised button would be appreciated.
2. Anodizing the threads so that the flashlight can be "locked out".
3. Countersink (round off) the sharp edges of the lanyard hole so that it doesn't cut lanyards.
I am in almost complete agreement with the above, however I would like to keep the sharp edges personally or at least have optional tail caps for those of us who like the sharp edges and others who do not.
Secondly when the M30 is placed tailcap down and 'off' the rubber from the switch is almost exactly equal to the metal edges, thus you get the M30 to stand but not as securely as if a millimeter was added to the metal or taken from the rubber cap. Very minor issue however.
Additionally, a lockout feature would be fantastic, great idea 1dash1, and I second a slight variation of the side switch too. While it has solid UI with bare hands, if you're wearing gloves a larger diameter and a more raised switch for qucik access would be nice.
Otherwise I love it, I carry it during the day sometimes just because I like it so much, but at night it is certainly useful!
Also aside note, does anybody have a good suggestion for silicon lube or what a good weatherproof sealent would be to add around the O rings?
MattK
05-21-2009, 07:37 PM
Thanks,
I tried using the shipping calculation when checking out, but it doesn't sum up with the item in cart. Is it free shipping?
Yes. I sent an email to customer service, and still waiting for respond.
You have to set the country to Canada and the shipping method to International Airmail then hit update.
Some feedback taken from other threads on the CPF forums:
Thanks!
We actually played with both larger and small side switches but when they get much bigger we were concerned about accidental activation. Same for it sticking out more.
I asked the factory about lockout - should hear from them soon and we're already discussing a less tactical tailcap accessory option. My thought, if it's not too expensive, is to make it like the front bezel - removeable crenalations - but I'm not sure if that would impact our abiliy to give a clearly recognizable locator 'spot' for the side switch. Getting the lanyard holes chamfered shouldn't be an issue.
gbleeker
05-21-2009, 08:26 PM
[quote=MattK;2311962]
We actually played with both larger and small side switches but when they get much bigger we were concerned about accidental activation. Same for it sticking out more.
quote]
Matt,
My biggest complaint about the light is the lack of a decent size to the side button too. It needs to either be larger or it needs to stick out from the wall of the flashlight.
Currently, if I pick up the light and need to turn it on quickly - I have to look down at the light to find the button. It is not a natural feel at all, nor can you feel the button quickly. Otherwise - I love the light. PWM not an issue for me.
The button would be a huge improvement if changed.
1dash1
05-22-2009, 12:28 AM
Matt:
Not a dealbreaker. Just providing some feedback. ;)
After only a half-dozen hours of casual use and despite my non-tactical background, I've learned to appreciate Olight's effort in providing a feature-rich duty light for LEO's, Security personnel, and other tactical users. I think Olight hit a home run in that department.
However, if Olight is moving away from its target market by eliminating the crenelated tailcap (a decision originally driven by its goal of satisfying the tactical market), then perhaps the overall marketing strategy should be re-evaluated. Accidental activation is a critical design criteria for tactical applications, but is it such a big deal for general purpose use? Or is ease of use and convenience of more value to the average user? Would the average consumer prefer higher low and medium outputs for a flashlight that they specifically chose because of its superbright nature? And would the average consumer gladly accept the tradeoff (upping the sub-10 lumen low to a sub-30 lumen low) in order to improve the PWM situation?
I don't think that Olight will be able to satisfy everyone. We've discussed, at length, the engineering tradeoffs that were made in designing the light. It's a tightwire act in a 3-ring circus. You shift one thing and something else has to be moved to counterbalance it.
So, what do you think? Are they locked into the LEO/tactical sector or are they broadening their aim?
MattK
05-22-2009, 05:05 AM
Currently, if I pick up the light and need to turn it on quickly - I have to look down at the light to find the button. It is not a natural feel at all, nor can you feel the button quickly. Otherwise - I love the light. PWM not an issue for me.
I don't get it, you mean if you need to turn the light on or the strobe? Assuming you mean the strobe I have a fairly simple solution:
Note the side buttons position is relation to the flats on the battery tube.
Remove the tailcap, remove the pocket clip retaining ring.
Spin the pocketclip so that it lines up with where the side button position you noted was.
Replace the retaining ring, replace the tailcap and voila - another side button position indicator (along with the flat spot on the tailcap.)
1dash1:
I don't think the crenelated tailcap is being eliminated. We're simply looking at providing an accessory tailcap without the crenelations or, as I suggested above making them user removable a la the bezel crenelations.
Olight is not moving away from the target market for the M30. Olight, as you know, makes a road variety of products to appeal to different types of users. The M series lights are their tactical line. The 'average' consumer doesn't know what PWM is, doesn't care and will likely not notice it unless they read a thread here and start looking for it. Mountains are being made out of molehills and the topic has been beaten to death already.
Since it is impossible to make 1 product to please everyone, one shouldn't try. Pick an application or niche and make the best product for that market; I think Olight has done that here. Look at the other major player MC-E lights - if you were a LEO/Security Guard, home defense etc user which light is best suited to your needs? The M30 is the obvious choice; if you need any more lumens or throw you probably need an HID.
There will be more products. :)
mpkav
05-22-2009, 05:43 AM
I am considering buying this light but as far as using it as a duty light im worried there isn't a good holster for it. I dont like using closed top holsters like a cs/oc(mace) type holster for my lights. I think the tailcap will make it difficult to carry.
MattK
05-22-2009, 06:33 AM
We're working ona dedicated closed holster now. I think we'll have an open half-holster available sooner than later. :)
1dash1
05-22-2009, 08:03 AM
Matt:
As an accessory tailcap, not a replacement tailcap, perhaps Olight could consider killing two birds with one stone. Take off the crenelations (for the nontactical market) and install a sidebutton cover that's taller (for the same nontactical market)?
MattK
05-22-2009, 01:43 PM
I don't think we want 2 version of the M30 Special Operations light so the tailcap would likely be an accessory unless we could work up a redesign that would work for both markets.
MattK
05-22-2009, 03:41 PM
M30 Red Filters, Green Filters and Spare Battery Mazines have arrived!
Pressure switches are ~3 weeks at this point I'm hearing so maybe 4 weeks before we can ship them.
FlashlightsNgear.com
05-23-2009, 12:35 PM
Thats great news on the Filters and spare magazines. I have a question? Will the AW brand RCR123's fit in the Olight magazines? As of now Ive been using Cytac RCR123 and they fit, and regular CR123's fit good also. Thanks again Matt for keeping all of us here up to date on all these great accessories.
MattK
05-24-2009, 06:08 AM
I don't know. The 'primary' application for the magazines is for CR123A's - not rechargeables as even the RCR123A's come in a fairly wide size range.
tab665
05-24-2009, 07:36 AM
is there any chance a 4 cell battery magazine will be made?
MattK
05-24-2009, 09:31 AM
It's possible but not in the planning currently.
Mikey V
05-25-2009, 11:39 AM
M30 Red Filters, Green Filters and Spare Battery Mazines have arrived!
Pressure switches are ~3 weeks at this point I'm hearing so maybe 4 weeks before we can ship them.
Matt, I just confirmed by actual trial fit that the diffuser, and thus the filters, for the M30 will also fit the LumaPower MRV SK's perfectly. Will extra diffusers be available separately, outside of the M30 kit?
Mike
cd-card-biz
05-25-2009, 04:11 PM
Hi Matt,
Do 2x Ultrafire 3000mAH 18650 button tops fit correctly in the M30 (with extender tube)? How about 2x of the 18500 button tops - without tube?
Thanks for the info,
Bill
mpkav
05-25-2009, 06:49 PM
Matt, I think I am going to order this light tomorrow. I had a similar question, what is the best battery configuration without the extender tube? AW's?? I will be ordering batteries also!!!! Thanks
MattK
05-26-2009, 05:19 AM
Matt, I just confirmed by actual trial fit that the diffuser, and thus the filters, for the M30 will also fit the LumaPower MRV SK's perfectly. Will extra diffusers be available separately, outside of the M30 kit?
Mike
Cool!
Yes, we'll have extra diffusers ~ the middle of next week. They fit the D-Mini EX as well btw.
Hi Matt,
Do 2x Ultrafire 3000mAH 18650 button tops fit correctly in the M30 (with extender tube)? How about 2x of the 18500 button tops - without tube?
Thanks for the info,
Bill
Matt, I think I am going to order this light tomorrow. I had a similar question, what is the best battery configuration without the extender tube? AW's?? I will be ordering batteries also!!!! Thanks
Yes, the UF 18650 3000mah cells, 2400mah cells and protected 18500's all fit perfectly - with and without the extender respectively.
I like the '2 x protected 18500 without the extender' configuration the most.
sledhead
05-26-2009, 05:49 AM
Glad to hear the clear diffusers will be available separately. They also fit the Spear nicely!
cd-card-biz
05-26-2009, 09:09 AM
Thanks for the info Matt. Order placed! :)
MattK
05-26-2009, 09:43 AM
Sure thing guys - thanks for your orders! :)
I'll update here when spare diffusers are available.
mcm308
05-28-2009, 03:37 PM
That's it... I'm gonna order one...
276
05-28-2009, 04:22 PM
Hey Matt the discription for the green filter is the same as the red.
MattK
05-28-2009, 04:33 PM
Ack! Fixed - thanks for the heads up (if you want something done tight...)
BTW - spare diffusers are arriving on Monday, 6/1 :)
